My goal with this dress block is to draft a sleeve that can be used as my gold standard. Anita’s sleeve block had 3cm too much ease in the bicep. Trepidatious of reducing bicep drastically I reduced the bicep by only 2cm. Her measurement for a block sleeve is bicep + 5cm. That seems generous doesn’t it?
When I measured the total sleeve length it was short for me by 3.2cm. I dove in at the deep end and added it all to the sleeve cap. I slashed slightly lower down so that I could maintain or increase the width across the deltoid – am I boring you? I promise the next post will be fascinating!
My altered sleeve cap left me with around 8cm ease in the cap – way too much for an ungathered sleeve cap. But its fairly comfortable and I like the look – almost. A well eased sleeve cap to my eye looks quite ‘tailored’ I suppose. Here it is on me. I haven’t fixed all the other issues with my block at this stage.
Fearing the sleeve is just too full at the cap I reduced the cap height 1cm. This resulted in less ease and a much nicer fit. I think ease in this cap is about 3cm. I will self flagellate later for not having measured the ease!
And here it is in the flesh, err, calico.
Either sleeve looks right to me. The lowered head is definitely easier to sew. But from the back, both of them look tight across the bicep line. Why the heck is it called a bicep line when the line across the bottom of the sleeve cap is actually the base of the deltoid (the immunisation muscle!) and definitely not the bulkiest bicep measurement?
Looks to me like I have quite developed laterals on the right and both sleeves are tight, but they don’t feel tight and with 6cm ease, nor should they be. So then I let the sleeve seam out 1cm hoping for increased mobility and correspondingly let out the top of the block at the underarm, side seam 1cm. Bicep ease now 7cm.
This feels better but looks worse.
Should I maintain the bicep width as is and attempt to widen the sleeve cap? That will add more to the cap ease though.
Oh, give me a T shirt! Isn’t this why knitwear comprises 70% of the modern wardrobe? I am seriously losing any excitement I had conjured by this point. Time to move on I think.