Its official, the Diana has been fully
exploited explored .
As you may recall from my previous 2 posts, Diana #3 was cut at the same time as her predecessors Diana #1 and Diana #2. Why would I cut 3 versions of an untested pattern? I kinda sorta think I was setting myself the challenge and deep down there is a resistance to repetition. So if I handed myself a challenge I was bound to, I would have to rise to the occasion – right? The challenge of changing a pattern, already cut as standard straight out of the envelope (off the printer) made me use some creative problem solving; I consider myself fully extended!
Having resolved to changing the shoulder gathers to a single shoulder tuck, I reduced the dart bulk by subtracting a 1.5cm wedge from the armscye of the bodice. Its hard to believe I had to do this when I’m much larger than the D cup sizing. There was just so much extra for over the boob and unfortunately as my girls head south they’ve left very little bulk in that region – boo hoo!
Written on my shirt/bodice block is a reminder – “never ever add extra to this shoulder area. No, don’t do it, you won’t like it!”. So why the hell did I choose a pattern with excess bulk over the shoulder?! Because I was so grateful to Alexandra Morgan from In-House Patterns for posting a tutorial on CF partial placket construction when I requested it! And I remain ever grateful for your post Alexandra. Not your fault I’m not a fan of over boob excess I can’t fill eh?!
- moved 1/2 remaining dart bulk to side seam dart after removing 1.5cm from armscye edge to reduce dart. Had to recut the upper bodice portion from a 45cm scrap on hand.
- in order to accommodate the upper bodice piece, created a curved empire design line to join the bottom bodice to top which resulted in the weirdest angle between dart and empire – definitely not recommended!
- cut a new lowered and opened neckline following Sara Alm’s instructions in her Craftsy class – great instructions
- Shortened the shoulder line 7mm
- Sewed pleat down to control blowsy bulk at shoulder, those pleats do need to be moved toward the CF rather than centred.
- contoured side seams a lot
- retained the added 1cm to sleeve length, because I forgot to remove it again after Diana #2
- nice cuff, though the closure is back over front damnit!! I could easily make another buttonhole on the other side and sew 2 buttons together like cufflinks – but… meh!
- Big thumbs down to the fabric. This is a rayon crepe and if you wonder why you’ve never seen it in your local fabric shop I’ll tell you why! Because when you iron it, the fabric flattens and loses it crepeyness which leaves it semi flat, semi crepe, semi bigger. But then unlike it’s distant cousin Ms Poly Ester, it wrinkles like a maniac and you can see every sodding little fold because its not patterned, yet it has none of the endearing qualities of linen – thats why.
- The ‘collarless band’ neckline I drafted was too wide at the back. I really must post separately about this because its a pattern making revelation for me and sloppy back necklines are something I’ve always disliked, but they have happened every time I open up a neckline. I now have the fix!
- Recall this fabric was cut exactly the same as the other 2 and yet it seemed much larger. I’d do well to remember that some drapey fabrics stand away from the body rather than collapse inwards toward the body.
- bad french seaming, 1cm SA is too small for francoseams!
All in all it doesn’t look as awful in real life as these photos suggest, but I anticipate a wardrobe wadder this time around. Pity, cos I love this blue and it would have filled a hole in my wardrobe. Recently Tasia of Sewaholic posted about “Knowing when to quit”. I think for me its a case of see it through so at least someone (anyone?) can possibly wear it and I will have justified putting it in the charity bin!
Sparkly pants are from a Sass and Bide sale 3 years ago. Every time I wear them men and women alike comment as they pass me. Never before has an item of clothing brought so many smiles, I think people see them sparkling in the distance and anticipate what they’ll say as they pass – its always complimentary – the embodiment of ‘spark joy’!!