The pattern for these tartan trews were ripped off a pair of italian silk trousers – the ones accompanying the Diana top by In House patterns here. The only thing I wanted to change was the very strange square shaped waistband that stood away from the body. Makes me wonder if the designer had envisaged these sitting on the hips perhaps? Anyhoo, using Kenneth King’s Jean-ius – Reverse Engineer Your Favourite Fit, I draped silk organza over the pants and traced them off as best I could. Then, losing my way in the storm of organza, slant side pocket and crotch depth, I took the resulting pattern to Anita at Studio Faro for advice and tweaking. The pattern was drafted about 2 years ago and these trews made about 9 months ago! See, all the time I was showing you beaded thingamajigs, I was also beavering away on sensible everyday garments! Great discussion yesterday on Steph’s blog BTW, Steph’s quote from Alan Rickman is particularly thoughtful as were the comments.
The last post was all about crotch curve and I’m afraid this is another below the belt expose! Just look at how shallow that front crotch curve is. Even less curvy than my personal pant block. I was experimenting with all sorts of fly arrangements, the buttonhole sits at the tip of the triangular fly extension – the button was sewn onto the inside of the waistband.
At this point I should tell you how awful a bias cut waistband can be for your grey hairs! Something I’d not appreciated when designing these trews was how the bias would squish vertically making the waistband wider at the centre front. It was fully interfaced too, but still it grew in width, which is why the ‘under’ waistband at centre front peaks out from the ‘over’ bit at centre front. You do come here for the high brow convo eh?! So I ask you, how does one control a bias cut waistband or is the problem particularly bad on a curved waistband such as this one?
Hating the shoes BTW, just looking at them in these photos reminds me that Princess is correct yet again. They have to go since they are neither aesthetically pleasing or happy on my ‘bad’ foot – jettison! Clearly I’m not comfortable with the waistband height, too hipster perhaps? It looks like I’m pulling them up at the sides to keep ’em on!
There’s something about the length/width of the leg that doesn’t grab me about these – can you pick what it is? No, furreal, I’d love an opinion because its horribly unclear to me why I don’t love these.
The fabric is a poly/lycra blend bought at Joy’s for a mere $7/m, so I’m not crying and this was meant to be a first try (better than a wearable muslin, but not as good as the lined woolen version of my dreams!). I love tartan trews and ever since the 80s punk era, I’ve always hankered for a pair for my wardrobe. The Grey Fox does them so bloody well it makes me green with envy! But then he appears to have ‘fine’ bone structure and little calf to speak of. Whereas mine jut out athletically, is that why I don’t love the verticals? Or is it hubby’s strange camera angle? Always safe to blame ‘im indoors since he never reads SNT!! Another excellent example… haha, call that a driver?!
Another excellent example… haha, call that a driver?!
And not to be outdone, this wee lassie… Okay, I see the leg shape problem, her’s are looser all the way down (mine bind at the calf) and her cuff is wider allowing the pants to fall unhindered while mine are pushed up by my shoes. That makes mine look more masculine; men’s trousers often break at the shoe – ahah moment! Can you see anything I’ve missed? Oh yes, she’s probably 180cm, 55kg and has long slim legs – that could be it too! However judging by the jaunty angle of her great toes, I see bunions in this gals’ future – off to the podiatrist with you lassie! When I lived in Scotland I thought I could ‘do’ quite a convincing Scottish brogue, it has alwasy kept my kids amused. Imagine my comfuzzlement when I ventured into labour ward for the first time to a mother’s screams as her baby’s head was crowning “Ah wanna gan hem the noo” – loosely translated “I wish to go home right now”!! Mother and baby both did well!
What about that selvage pocket edge though? Pretty and sturdy!
Faux, nay lets call ’em fake welt pockets on the back. Less bulk, less work and thank goodness because I’m not head over heals in love with these trews.
These are a prototype, just have to give the pattern some tweaks and give it another go, oh and ditch the shoes!